Fabric Glossary: Terms Starting with W

Waffle

Fabrics woven with a honeycomb weave are commonly referred to as waffle weave due to their distinctive textured pattern of raised threads forming small rectangular shapes. When crafted from cotton, this fabric is known as waffle pique. Waffle weaves may also be produced using a Waffle Georgette weave. Waffle fabrics are versatile and can be made from a wide range of fibers, including silk, cotton, wool, polyester, and various synthetic materials. Beyond weaving, waffle textures can also be created through knitting, resulting in what is commonly called thermal fabric. The unique waffle weave structure enhances the fabric’s absorbency, making it ideal for applications requiring moisture-wicking properties.

Wale

Corduroy fabric is characterized by its distinctive cord or wale pattern and can be made from a variety of fibers, including some with added stretch for flexibility. The width of the cords is described by the wale count, which refers to the number of ridges per inch. A lower wale number indicates thicker cords, while a higher wale number means finer cords. For example, a 3-wale corduroy has much thicker ridges compared to a 10-wale fabric. Wale counts typically range from 1.5 up to 21, with traditional corduroy usually falling between 10 and 12 wales per inch. The finest types of corduroy, such as pinwale (or pincord) and needlecord, have wale counts above 16, resulting in very narrow, delicate ridges.

Warp

The lengthwise threads in a fabric weave that run parallel to the roll length. They run perpendicular to the weft threads, which cross the fabric widthwise. Serving as the foundation of the fabric, warp threads are wound directly onto the loom before weaving begins. Typically, the warp direction is stronger and more stable than the weft direction. For this reason, it is highly recommended to cut and sew your pattern pieces with the warp aligned perpendicular to the floor, ensuring a smooth, elegant drape for your garment.

Warp Knit

A knitting method where the yarn zigzags along the length of the fabric on flat, open width machines. Common types of warp-knitted fabrics include Tricot and Raschel knits.

Waterproof

Waterproof fabrics are designed to be completely impervious to water, preventing any moisture from penetrating the material. These fabrics are typically treated with a heavy coating or laminated with a waterproof membrane to achieve this barrier. In addition to the fabric itself, waterproof garments often incorporate extra protective features such as sealed or heat-taped seams and waterproof zippers to ensure no water can seep through stitching or closures.

Water Repellent

A collective term for fabrics that don’t easily get wet and includes both water resistant and waterproof.

Water Resistant

Fabrics that are designed to resist the penetration of water to a certain extent but are not completely waterproof. They can withstand light moisture, such as light rain or splashes, but are not suitable for prolonged or heavy exposure to water. Some fabrics possess natural water resistance due to the properties of their fibers or the specific way they are woven, or a combination of both. Many water-resistant fabrics are treated with a special coating applied to the fibers or fabric surface to enhance their ability to repel water.

Weaving

The process of creating fabric by interlacing threads or yarns at right angles on a loom. The lengthwise threads are called the warp, and the crosswise threads are called the weft. The three fundamental types of weave structures are plain weave, satin weave, and twill weave, each producing distinct textures and characteristics in the finished fabric.

Weft

Also known as the fill threads in a woven fabric, the weft runs horizontally across the fabric from selvage to selvage, perpendicular to the lengthwise warp threads. The interlacing of weft and warp threads forms the structure of the fabric.

Weight

The weight of a fabric plays a crucial role in determining its end use. Fabric weight can be measured using several different systems depending on the type of fabric. Common methods include the metric measurement GSM (grams per square meter), the imperial measurement ounces per square yard (oz/yd²), and, in the silk industry, the momme. Generally, a higher number indicates a heavier fabric. It is important to note that fabric weight is not the same as thread count, which measures the density of threads in the fabric. Fabric weights are typically categorized into three groups: lightweight, midweight, and heavyweight. When reordering fabric, always specify the weight, as many fabrics are available in multiple weight options to suit different applications.

Welt

In apparel, a welt is a strip of fabric sewn along the edge of a pocket opening. It serves both as a decorative finish and as reinforcement, adding durability to the pocket. In furniture upholstery, a welt cord is a fabric-covered cord that runs along the seams of chair cushions, sofa cushions, or pillows, providing a polished, tailored appearance while also reinforcing the edges.

Wholesaler

In the fabric industry, a wholesaler is a company that buys fabrics in bulk from mills, converters, manufacturers, or jobbers and then sells them to smaller manufacturers, retail stores, and designers. Wholesalers act as intermediaries, facilitating the distribution of fabric from production sources to end users in the supply chain.

Wool

A natural fiber obtained from the coats of sheep, lambs, and other animals such as goats, muskoxen, bison, rabbits, and camelids - including alpacas, llamas, and vicuñas. Coarse, longer hairs are separated from the finer medium hairs and soft undercoats during processing. After cleaning, these fibers are spun into yarns and threads, which are then used for weaving or knitting fabrics.

Woolen

Refers to fabric woven from wool yarns or wool blends. These fabrics are typically made from carded wool fibers, resulting in a soft, warm, and slightly fuzzy texture that provides excellent insulation.

Worsted

A fine, smooth fabric woven from yarn spun from long, tightly twisted wool fibers. The worsted process involves combing the wool to align the fibers parallel before spinning, resulting in a strong, durable yarn with a sleek surface. This process differs from carding, which produces a fuzzier, softer yarn used in woolen fabrics.

Woven Fabric

Is created by interlacing two sets of threads at right angles - lengthwise warp threads and crosswise weft threads. The three fundamental types of weave are plain weave, satin weave, and twill weave, with each producing distinct textures and characteristics in the finished fabric.

Woven Stretch Jersey

A woven fabric from silk and spandex fibers that has a similar look to knitted jersey fabrics.